The Route

The Route
It is a very long way.....

Sunday 10 April 2011

10th April - Chittaurgarh to Bassi

Chilled day. I am feeling much better than yesterday but still a bit weak. Alan is feeling bad with a head cold.

We did not wake up until about 9.30 and both took our time to get ready. We decided as neither of us were feeling great we would have a chilled day, visit the fort and sights in Chittaurgarh and then bike only about 30km to a village called Bassi where there is a Heritage Hotel (we decided to treat ourselves a bit).

The view from our hotel veranda of the Fort was very impressive, however the room itself really was not great (first photo).


We biked to a tourist restaurant and had cheese toasties for breakfast and then headed up the hill to the fort. Alan was really struggling with his cold - especially in the heat (48c) and so decided to chill in the shade for a couple of hours while I went for an explore.


The fort really is very impressive. It is not really on the tourist trail and although there were thousands of Indian Tourists I only saw 3 other white people. I am so surprised that this site is not better known. The views over the town and the plains on the way up to the fort were great. Behind the walls there are many things to see and it would have been very easy to spend the whole day exploring and pottering around. There is a museum, many different temples and a tower.




This is what Wikipeadia has to say about the Fort:

Chittorgarh Fort is the largest fort in India and the grandest in the state of Rajasthan. The fort, plainly known as Chittor, was the capital of Mewar and is today situated several kilometres by road south of Bhilwara. It was ruled initially by Guhilot and later by Sisodias, the Suryavanshi clans of Chattari Rajputs, from 7th century, until it was finally abandoned in 1568 after the siege by Emperor Akbar in 1567. It sprawls majestically over a hill 180 m (590.6 ft) in height spread over an area of 280 ha (691.9 acres) above the plains of the valley drained by the Berach River. The fort precinct with an evocative history is studded with a series of historical palaces, gates, temples and two prominent commemoration towers. These monumental ruins have inspired the imagination of tourists and writers for centuries.



I firstly had a wander round a couple of temples and then walked up the Vijay Stambh. This is an awesome tower. It is like a maze inside. I loved visiting purely because it was different to any thing else I have visited. I love the Indian lack of "Health and Safety". There are tiny steps with a major drop if you get your footing wrong and many of them are in the pitch black with people ascending and descending at the same time and thus trying to pass each other in the dark. There is absolutely no way this would be allowed in Europe. There are around 157 narrow steps leading to the terrace from where one can have a beautiful view of Chittorgarh town and the fort.

This is what Wikipeadia has to say about the tower:

Vijay Stambha, is a huge nine storey tower which was built by Maharana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over the Muslim rulers of Malwa and Gujarat in 1440. The tower is 122 ft (37 m) high and stands on a 10 ft (3.0 m) high base. There are sculptures and carvings on the exterior walls of the tower. The tower is visible from any section of the town below. And for reaching tower top one have to climb 157 steps, one can take great view of the surroundings. The inside walls of the tower are carved with images of Gods, weapons, etc. Dedicated to Vishnu,this 37.19 m high 9 storied tower is one of the most remarkable in India . It is built partly of red sand stone and partly of white marble and is enriched by numerous images of Hindu gods and goddesses with inscriptions at bottom of each. It is believed that the tower took 10 years to be completed. This exemplary piece of architecture stands on a pedestal 10 feet high. Each of the nine stories are distinctly marked with openings and balconies at every face of each story. The interior staircase winds alternately through the central chamber and surrounding gallery.


After going up the tower, I went for a wander round all the temples. There were loads of monkeys everywhere. Indian tourists were buying snacks to feed to them. There were also loads of pigs everywhere. They were fighting off the monkeys to get hold of the food that the tourists where feeding them. I can't even remember seeing a single pig in the South of India. They are everywhere in the north.

It took a while to wander round as per usual loads of Indian tourists asked me to take their photos on my camera and wanted me in their photos. I really do feel famous in this crazy country!


One of the most important temples in the complex is a temple devoted to Shiva. Inside the temple is a small lake full of holy water and a spring where the water comes up from the ground into a fountain. Worshippers drink from the fountain and wash in the holy lake. I went down to the waters edge to take a photo and to wash my feet. I did not realise how slippy the step just in the water would be and slipped. If it was not for the fact that 2 very kind Indian ladies grabbed me, both my camera and I would have gone in for a swim!




It took a while to leave the area as loads of Indians kept on stopping me and asking me to take their photos. I found it particularly funny when I later passed an Army training camp and they all wanted their photo taken. Usually the army has problems with people taking photos of their soldiers..... Not in India.


I biked on further to the end of the fort and passed another huge temple with thousands of pilgrims. They were giving out free food to the visitors and I stopped to sample. I just wanted to try but the people were really friendly and got me to sit down and try everything. I had loads and even asked for more to take some for Alan. It was very tasty.

I met up with Alan at the entrance and we biked back, packed up from the hotel and set off.




Took a while to get stuff together but left town around 3.30. Good country road out of town for 10km and then on to a good highway without very much traffic. We arrived at our accommodation at 5 having gone very slowly from Chittaurgarh. A nice couple of hour bike ride.


We arrived at Bassi Village about 5 and ended up speaking to the manager/owner. He was very very understanding of the fact that we are on a budget and that we did not have anywhere else to stay locally as it was getting late in the day. He very kindly gave us an incredible rate on the room.

We were really really happy. A totally different experience to yesterday when we did not get into our room until 10pm. Today we could just relax. I must have spent 30mins just standing under the really hot shower. I got totally clean for the first time in ages - not India clean - really clean. I did not even have any oil residue under my finger nails.


It was really nice to sit and catch up on my blog for a couple of hours in the courtyard before dinner.

We got chatting to a couple on the table next to us who were doing a very similar tour of Rajasthan but the opposite direction to us (and they are doing it with a driver in a car). We swapped experiences and suggestions of places to see.

I enjoyed sitting in the piece and quite of the courtyard till late and chatted on Skype with Jacob for well over 1 hour. It is always lovely to catch up with buddies from home :-)
A fun day. My stomach is still not great though.




This is Alan looking extremely happy because this is the first place we stayed for months with loo roll - and 2 rolls spare as well!!!

It was lovely to get somewhere really chilled and beautiful for a relaxed evening off. After last night, where we did not find anywhere to stay until about 9.30-10, it was lovely to arrive some where in plenty of time to shower and relax before dinner.


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