7th March - Pindwara to Udaipur

We got up at 7 so that we could have a good days biking and some time in Udaipur before it got dark. It was a beautiful morning. We could see the mountains off in the distance and desert either side of the highway.

We were getting hungry and I needed some water and so we stopped off at a restaurant for breakfast on the side of the road about 10. It was a very good job that we did as the owner explained that there was nothing for another 55km. He was absolutely right. This as the first time in India that I had biked through an area where there really was no little shops and places to buy water for a significant distance. Neither Alan nor I was prepared for that. I bought loads of water but I was still out of water by the time we got to the next town.

The ride through the desert mountain pass was fantastic. We climbed to 930m from 200m. The views were fantastic and it was great to be on such a good quality road with very little traffic. As we were cycling along through a guy on a motorbike road along Alan's side and said "Danger, danger, foreigner danger". When this then happened another time an hour later with another guy on a motorbike we then got a little worried. We found out afterward that it is only really unsafe at night when even Indians do not travel on the road. There are a large number of poor, tribal Rajasthani in the surrounding area. As the area is so remote they high-jack trucks and vehicles at night and steal all of the goods.


This highway will forever be known as hi-jack highway!

There are 4 lanes on the highway but in true Indian style this does not mean that the 2 left lanes are for traffic in one direction and the other two are for traffic in the opposite direction. Of course not. It means that maybe 70% of the traffic sticks to this rule. If a truck driver thinks that it would be faster for him to get off at the next junction by going the opposite direction to the on coming traffic then he will just cross over....


Many of the vehicles on the road are 4*4 jeeps which act as the local bus service (there are a few buses too). Each jeep will literally carry at least 30 people. About 10 people can sit of the roof, 10 hang off the back and about 10 sitting inside. Anyone with a jeep picks up people on the way to spread the cost of the petrol for the journey between all of the passengers. They are not actual taxis, just locals that pick up other locals on the way.


On the side of the road there are little make shift cafes, well an area where there are some seats and a sheet strung together between some pools to provide some shade. They do not sell anything other than tea, not even water. We stopped off at a places and found the people welcoming and they did not speak a word of English.

The colours of the clothes and the jewelery of the women is very different from Southern India. I wish that I had taken more photos as we traveled along. The style reminds me of traditional gypsy clothing. They love bright pink, red and orange with huge mounts of gold bangles. They then to have long skirts and shawls rather than saris.

It was very strange seeing camels pulling carts along the road instead of cows.


People did not smile at us as we passed as they would have in the South. They just stared. I did not feel particularly comfortable to be cycling there and was very happy to have Alan with me. In the South even when people stared if you smiled back then they would enviably return the smile. Here the stare just continued. A small number of women did just point and laugh as well. However, it was absolutely great biking and really interesting to see such a totally different part of the country.

We took a wrong turning after we left the mountain pass and ended up traveling on some single track roads through some villages before reaching Udaipur. It took a while as we were back on true Indian roads... potholes and cows and all....


Udaipur is a much bigger city than I thought it would be. It took us about 1 hours to navigate through tiny, jam packed, single lanes before we reached the main tourist area right by the river. It was 4ish and we had time to pop into the German Bakery for a cheese cake and a coffee (I am being totally spoiled for western food right now) before heading off to find a room in a hotel close by.

It is the quiet season and there was lots of competition for guests and so we managed to check into a great place for only 300rs per night for 2 people (about £2 each). The room was big with a private bathroom with a western style toilet. The great thing about the place though was the views of the river and the shared areas where you can sit and look at the view and order coffee etc.


Our arrival in Udaipur was great timing as there was a big festival (Mewar Festival) taking place just 5 minutes walk from where we where staying. Once we had showered and changed we went down to the river to watch. There were thousands of people there singing and dancing to drums. Right on the waters edge there were hundreds of women dressed in bright clothing praying to hand made images of Gangaur. All the women stand up all at once and then bend down to pray and then up again.... It really was a very impressive slight. When they left the waters edge they put the images of Gangaur on their heads and do some traditional dancing to drums before continuing the procession else where.

This is what the internet has to say about the Festival:

The Mewar festival is celebrated to welcome the advent of spring. It coincides with the festival of Gangaur in Udaipur, and has a unique charm about it. The festival of Gangaur is very significant for women of Rajasthan. It is a time for them to dress up in their best clothes and participate in the festival. They gather to dress the image of Isar and Gangaur and then carry them in ceremonial procession through different parts of the city.

The procession winds its way to the Gangaur Ghat at Lake Pichhola. Here, the images are transferred to special boats amidst much singing and festivity.Once the religious part of the festival is over, it is time for cultural events where Rajasthani culture is portrayed through songs, dances and other programmes. The festival culminates with an impressive fireworks display. Like other fairs and festivals celebrated throughout the state, there is a lot of activity which keeps the participants in a joyful frame of mind, eager to enjoy every moment of the celebrations.


After watching the festival for an hour or so we went off for a wander round the city and found a great restaurant with roof top views of the Palace to have dinner. We will go to see the Palace tomorrow.

Udaipur is the most beautiful city I have been to in India. It is really romantic at lights with all of the old buildings lit up. It reminded me of Prague.

The internet blurb says "The city of Udaipur is a lovely land around the Azure water lakes hemmed in by the lush hills of the Aravails. A vision in white drenched in romance and beauty, Udaipur is a fascinating blend of sights sounds and experience-an inspiration for the imagination of poets, painters and written." It is correct :-)


A really fab day of contrast from the High-jack highway to the beautiful city of Udaipur. One of the best days biking so far. I could not upload all of the photos here. For more Photos click here