The Route

The Route
It is a very long way.....

Friday 29 April 2011

20th April - Varanasi

The train was supposed to be the express train and the time table said that the train should arrive at 8.30. Unfortunately it did not arrive until 10.30. I really had wanted to get some sleep on the journey but I did not feel comfortable enough about the security of my belongings to sleep. I also could not use the time to catch up on my blog as I did not want to get my laptop out on the train in front of everyone. I have heard so much too many bad stories from other travelers about this train ride to ignore their advice. The atmosphere on this train was really different from the journey that I took from Jalgaon to Palanpur. By the time that we arrived in Varanasi the train was actually every quiet and there were only 3 men just sitting staring at me. I did feel rather uncomfortable and I was very glad to step off the train.

It took a while to get my bike from the parcel service at the platform but I am getting used to the system now and so at least I knew what to ask for etc this time. I did feel dog tired but I chose that rather than go through the hassle of getting all of my things and my bike on to an auto-rickshaw I would just cycle to the hotel - about 5km. It was reasonably easy to find and I got there about 11. I decided to stay in the area where all the tourist hotels are on the outskirts of town. This area is cleaner and quieter than on the ghats - although more expensive. Although I have been used to staying right in the thick of it in Indian cities, I did not really fancy this for Varanasi. I did not like the idea of having a view of burning funeral piers from my bedroom window nor breathing in the smoke from the fires. I had read that the streets leading to the ghats are also very narrow and unclean. I wanted to visit and see what it is like but I did not fancy staying there this time.

My room was not ready straight away and so I waited for about 30 mins and locked up my bike somewhere safe. I met Johnnie about 12.30.

The hotel is really lovely and it was a good place to go to have a really good bath/shower and wash away the dirt and smell of Indian Sleeper Class trains and dog tiredness. I soaked for about 1 hour....

Johnie had not had an easy journey either and so after freshening up we met and opened a bottle of wine and just relaxed for a few hours. I have not really been drinking for the last few months and so it was really lovely to have a cold white wine.

Unfortunately, I had a leak in my room from the ceiling which soaked many of my clothes. The hotel staff came to fix the problem and then provided a free laundry service for all the clothes that got wet (and a few more :-)). It was great. It felt like it had been ages since both my clothes and I had been really clean!

I had a short nap and then met Johnie to go for a wander round the area and explore. There is a large modern shopping center right next to the hotel. We went to McDonalds for coffee and then had a wander round the Shopping Centre. Although there are lots of shops the center was extremely quiet. Maybe most Indians just can't afford the products (about the same prices as the West) and so the center is there manly for tourists?

Johnnie chatted with Babu a Rickshaw driver outside the center and arranged a ride for a tomorrow morning to the river and old Varanesi. The best time of day to see the Ghats is for sunrise. Arrrggg. 5am start again..... I do need to get more sleep.....


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