12th May - Pokhara to Lumle

I got up a 8 and spent a while packing properly and having breakfast and coffee. I was still not feeling 100% and everything took far longer to do than it should have done. I put in a new inner tube on my back wheel and packed a rucksack and attached it too the back of my bike.

Had croissants with Miranda and said a final goodbye before heading off on my bike. It is frustrating that my bike was running really badly. My new wheels have not been tuned at all and are all buckled. It does make a huge difference where you take your bike. I really do need to learn more about bike tuning.

I had some things to get in Pokhara like some ayurvedic medicine for my cough/chest infection. vouchers for my phone and some money from an ATM. It was 2 by the time I actually found my way out of town and got on the right road.

The road out of town was not great but then it was really pretty through the valley. All up hill though. The first half was just a gentle incline however. My chest was really feeling it. Not like normal at all.


There is a massive permanent Tibetan refuge camp about 10km out of town. There are signs up about it and people selling Tibetan goods. I just looks like a normal small town though. It has been established for years.


I was happily cycling along when this small lad ran out into the road grabbed my hand bars and pulled me off my bike!

I was furious with him to begin with. It had hurt me, shocked me and also damaged my bike (not seriously but it had ripped all of the tape off my handle bars. I took him by the arm and walked him to some adults across the road asking to take him to his parents.

By this time the lad was crying his eyes out. It turned out that the lads father worked 10km down the road and that his mother had left the family 2 years ago. A local man that spoke extremely good English said that he would have a word with the lad and offered me a cup of tea.

I made friends with the lad and we shook hands to make up and I went for a cuppa. The man is a trekking guide. He told me how 20 years ago and other lady on her bike ride round the world had gone off trekking with him and had written about him in her book. He was so proud and went of to get the book and show me the photos. It was a lovely story. He was very excited about meeting another solo female cyclist.

After a nice little break I headed off again. It was only 42km on my bike from Lakeside to Lumle but it was a long 42km. My breathing was not right and the last 20km was very steep. It was gray and raining for much of the ride.


As I was cycling down into the village of Lumle, I stopped to watch some lads hurtling down the hill on home made go-carts. I say go-carts but actually they were 3 pieces of old wood with 4 tiny wheels attached. They were crazy! It is the main road through the ares (although it is not very busy) and they were going very quickly without any breaks or real mechanism for steering. I think that they angered the bus drivers as they had to wait for the the kids to get to the end of the run before they could pass them.

I was offered a go but declined. I might do some adventure sports but that was taking it one step too far....


One of the lads was absolutely desperate to try out my bike. I felt guilty for saying No but I was worried that he might bike off into the distance never to be seen again.



There are 3 lodges in the village. I was very glad that I arrived in plenty of time before dark to check out each place. One of the lodges was much better than the other 2 with a room for the same price: £1.40.

The lodge owner was a lovely woman who is rather quiet and reserved but speaks fantastic English.


She made me a huge plate of noodles with chicken and veg and gave me a seat at a table with a fantastic view of the valley. As I was eating the clouds cleared and the sun came out giving one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. I had to run and get my camera.

I was tired when I got back to my room after dinner. I read for a while and then went to sleep about 8.30.